A Travellerspoint blog

Kashmir!!!

Colin's 2nd blog...

Just like you've read about or seen on TV and movies...
KASHMIR--one of the most beautiful places on earth.
And such nice people.

Okay, as westerners, we've all heard about the dangers and conflict over Kashmir. So, we
were a little nervous to head there BUT we had heard from lots of other travelers and Kashmiris that it was safe and a great place to go. And considering I had heard about the wonders of Kashmir since a child, we just had to go. So, we drove the motorcycle for 12 hours after leaving the Golden Temple in Amritsar and finally arrived in Kashmir. No problems on the road other than being amazed at how many army men and trucks and forts there were. I mean, Pakistan would be very hard pressed to enter that area!!! Amazing really, never seen anything like it.
Educational note: Google maps shows Kashmir as "Jammu and Kashmir" --a part of India. All of the Kashmiris bluntly claimed that Kashmir is its own country. Pakistan claims that it is theirs and China of-course says they own it.
Well, the currency is India Rupees, the television is all Indian there are more Indian soldiers than you could imagine. I'd say its a part of India.

We stayed on a houseboat on Dal Lake and it was delightful. Then we changed to a guesthouse right off off the lake to save money and that was very nice too.
We did 4 days trekking (hiking) and camping in the Himalayas.
Amazing.
1 guide, 1 chef/fisherman, 1 "pony-man", 2 ponies, and lots of gear.

It was the first time Kristin and I have ever hiked and camped where we didn't have to carry anything! And, we had a personal chef. How luxurious! :)

Kashmir is a mostly muslim area so it feels a bit different from the rest of India. Women are usually totally covered, some in full burkas, and the men are more edgy and reserved. Once we met people though they were very, very nice. I was initially a little nervous to say I was American but was completely surprised at how many people's faces lit up and they were delighted to be with us. TV and the news makes us westerners a bit jaded I think. People are people. Arabs and muslims are not Taliban or Al Qaeda by and large, of-course.

Anyway, enjoy the photos. Kristin is a wonderful camerawoman. Sometimes I kid her, that she is like a young japanese tourist girl, clicking photos at every chance :)

Love to all of you.
Colin and Kristin

PS. we head toward Nepal in about a month and will be helping at the orphange a few weeks after we get there. Very much looking forward to that.

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the Golden Temple in Amritsar... a Sikh temple... beautiful
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changing of the guards at the Indian/ Pakistan border... interesting
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Colin getting searched before entering... he looks pretty dangerous I guess
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this look cracks me up... guess it's to protect the beard in transit? you see it a lot.
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on the road to Kashmir... wow... what a beautiful but LONG journey that was. After 12 hours on the bike... I couldn't feel my legs and my whole body vibrated for hours afterwards. Luckily, we didn't have to get back on the bike for a few days and could just chill on the houseboat. Ahhh....
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houseboat life. Dal Lake in Kashmir has over 1400 houseboats for rent and provide a relaxing vacation on the lake. Pretty nice. :)large_DSC_0619__2_.jpglarge_DSC_0621.jpglarge_DSC_0003.jpglarge_DSC_0707.jpg
the guesthouse owner... great man
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we met some friends in Kashmir and went to the temple, the botanical gardens and a few other attractions together. fun group
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Turban man .... Colin traded a German guy for this shirt. It originally said "Cashville", but he scratched the "C" off to say Ashville to remind us of home. It's spelled wrong, but does the trick :)
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Ali-mama (uncle Ali) was our guide up the mountain for 4 days, as well as our chef. He's been leading treks in these mountains for over 40 years... and he kicked our butts up the mountain. Funny and good hearted man
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Our gypsy porter man
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6 hour hike... straight up... exhausting... but beautiful views. my legs were burning!!
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argghh!!
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chai on the way up... i love that wood stove made of clay... may have to make one in the backyard of our house when we return
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Gypsy houses... people only live out here 3 months out of the year, because it's too cold to be here the other times of the year. Not a bad place to live though.
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sweet gypsy girls bathing in the waterfall
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our campsite the first night
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Colin getting hit up for gifts/ candy for the gypsy kids. They normally ask for school pens or taffy/ candy. We carry extra pens just for that reason. :)
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this one section had been burned by a fire
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just tobacco :)
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Where we spend our 2nd and 3rd nights... beautiful Gangebal Lake
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fishing for trout... Kashmiri style with a string and hook
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Colin x 25... ha ha... fun with panoramic
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little but tasty :)
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always taking photos :)
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flowers for my beloved
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view from the tent... not too bad... 18,000 foot mountain ... Harmukh Mountain... beautiful
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not a bad view there mountain goat
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a broken back and 2 brain surgeries won't keep Colin from climbing :)
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a little poi by the lake
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swimming in the glacier water... brrrr...
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pony-man teaching us "magic tricks"
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on the way down... we went "off trail" and made our own path. Lot's of fun and at times skiing down pine straw and dirt piles at the steep points. :)
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the village at the bottom. 2 grown heterosexual men holding hands... I love it. You see this all throughout India. Men are very affectionate with each other... a product of suppressed interaction with women I assume.
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i love this man ... so cute, quirky and friendly. I think he would have fit in my pack to take home with us.
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on the road again... heading toward Leh
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army men everywhere... I've honestly never seen so many men with guns in my life... they are everywhere in Kashmir
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Our initial plan was to sell the bike after our adventures to and from Leh... but as we approach Leh and our time here is coming to an end... we are reconsidering. Attachment issues to our bike I guess. Thinking we may keep it and drive through Nepal as well. We'll see...anything's possible.

xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxxoxoxo!!!!!

Posted by kristinandcolin 03:39 Archived in India

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Comments

splendid fotos as usual of a splendid adventure.
question- why are the folk called gypsies?
lovin the bike rig.
best luck, jim

by jim sumerlin

You guys rock. I love the updates and the photos are amazing! Perhaps the beard-scarf is to prevent insects from flying into the mouth?
<3

by Rebecca

K, the beard wrap maybe to keep the beard from flying up in the face while riding the motorcycle! Looks like ya'll are having a blast, your pictures are fabulous.

by Anne

Super cool y'all!!! Thanks for sharing!!

by Nate Thompson

Kristin and Colin, man you guys love adventure! Thanks for sharing as I think Ms. Loretta will never see any of these places. I know this will sound unusual but our pilgrimage to Jerusalem and Israel this year left me with some of these same comments...people are people everywhere. Most were so outgoing and really interesting to listen and to chat with whether it was outside of a church, on a boat, in a village....the rocky terrain and the wildflowers also very similar. The mountains there are majestic much taller than our Blue Ridge but nonetheless majestic. God speed and keep you safe, I cannot wait for you to return and hear about it all in person! Love to you both,

by Loretta Baily

Beautiful picks! I can smell the mountain fresh air. I guess life get's a lot simpler when you do have only the basics. We are going through such a turmoil of values in the west right now, leaving would be easy enough but teaching my grandchildren how to try to make a better world is my attempt to make a very small difference. Respect of nature(our mother) respect of men and women(our brothers and sisters) might go a long way.
Thank you for your inspiring adventure.
Muchos besitos.

by Michel

Very nice Colin and Kristin.......It was quite an experience being with you in Tosh and walk to Kheer Ganga. Had a great time. Learned a lot from both of you.

It feels great to read about your travels through India. You guys seem to have caught the spirit of India and making friends everywhere wherever you go.

Keep it up.......Shabash.

by Sunil Kumar Arora

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